Monthly Archives: February 2012

So you got a fancy laptop computer with Intel’s Pentium M or Celeron M chip, or maybe you went for AMD’s Athlon M chip.  You got built-in Wi-Fi.  Maybe even Bluetooth for your peripherals.  You are cutting the cord once and for all right?  Making it through a long flight or the most or your day without “plugging in” is a goal most mobile professionals and enthusiasts wish to accomplish.  Whether you are a long time user of Tablet PC’s or Notebook computers, we have a 7 tips that just might help you squeeze out some extra time out of your battery per charge.

1: Starting Off Right

Our fist tip is to get you off to a good start.  When you purchase a new laptop it is essential to calibrate and break in your new battery properly.  When you first unbox your new machine, the first place it belongs (after installing the battery) is connected to an AC outlet.  Even if the battery indicator shows a full or near full charge, it is a good idea to keep the unit plugged in for a minimum of 5-7 hours.  After this initial and absolute full charge, unplug it and have your way with it!  Drain that battery until you “force it to shut down” (save your work upon the low battery alert).  Then proceed to charge it up again to 100% (this time just charge it to “full”).  Go ahead and repeat the drain to zero.  After 3 full charge and discharge cycles, your battery is ready for the road. 

This process does 2 things.  First off, it breaks in your new battery right.  Second it calibrates it with your computer to give you a more accurate measurement of charge status from the software’s indicator.  Over time your battery will slip away from calibration, so it is suggested that you repeat one “full charge” and “discharge” every 3 months.  Refer to your owner’s manual if you wish as some manufacturers may recommend a slightly different calibration technique.

2: How Many Times Do We Have to Tell You to Turn off the Light!

The biggest culprit of battery drainage is hands down – the display.  Want more time per charge?  Turn that sucker down to a tolerable, but comfortable level.

3: Turn off Unnecessary Hardware

You heard the flight attendant.  “Turn off your cell phones during the duration of the flight”.  Use that as your cue to remember to shut off your WiFi, Bluetooth radio and to remove unneeded PCMCIA cards from the slot if you are not using them.  These devices all drain your battery.

4:  Tame Windows

Did you know that you have programs “checking for updates”, scanning files and running tasks that you don’t know about?  All of this unnecessary activity accesses your hard drive and over time makes an impact on your battery’s charge.  You can easily disable these services while on DC power.  Here’s how: 

Click “Start”, “All Programs”, “Accessories”, “System Tools”, and finally on “Scheduled Tasks”. Right-click on any scheduled task in the list you wish to disable and click “Properties”. Select the Settings tab. Under “Power Management”, choose “Don’t start the task if the computer is running on batteries” and “Stop the task if battery mode begins.” Click OK on each selection to save your changes.  You are bound to find several “culprits” that you could care less about while you are out and about running your notebook on batteries.

5:  Choose the Right Power Setting

In the Control Panel go to “Power Options”.  In the “Power schemes” drop down list, be sure to select either the “Portable/Laptop” or “Max Battery” option.

6:  Add More RAM!

Shhh.  This one is a secret of the pros!  If you have only 256MB of RAM, your machine is sure to write temporary information to the hard drive constantly.  Boost that up to 512MB or even better 768MB+ and you will be sure to minimize this issue, thereby keeping hard drive access to a minimum.  No matter what kind of “power saving technology” your processor has, your hard drive is a leech on your battery.

7:  Only Run DVD’s and CD’s Unless you Have to

Gamers, if you must game on the plane – get a “virtual CD drive” application.  There are many out there which allow you to copy an image of your CD to the hard drive, which spares power to run your optical drive.  Movie buffs – your bound to drain that battery watching DVD’s.  The solution: umm well… none at this time.

We hope you find these tips helpful.  If any readers have more to add please be sure to post under the “discuss this story” link.  We would be glad to learn more!

Take care of your laptop battery and ensure that it will be ready to work properly when you need it most. Some general tips for laptop care include: avoid extreme temperatures, don’t leave a laptop outside in cold weather or leave it in a hot car. Cold batteries can’t create very much power and hot batteries will discharge very quickly. Use electrical power when available to keep battery charged. Don’t let your laptop go for long periods of time without using the battery.
1. Smaller Is Better
Consider an ultraportable or thin-and-light rather than a desktop replacement laptop. Smaller displays use less power. Going with a hard drive that runs at 4200rpm uses less power than a hard drive running at 5400rpm.
2. Power Control
Use as little power as possible by adjusting laptop settings. Use the Power Options to set to the laptop to go inactive after a set amount of time. Set adjustments so that the display goes off first, then hard the hard drive stay active a bit longer and store the system content’s to the RAM.
3. Turn Down the Lights
Adjust the display brightness to a lower setting, make sure you can view the screen without squinting. You can also adjust the brightness of the display to suit the conditions you are working in.
4. Watch Your Battery Use
Keep an eye on your battery consumption and know how much power you have remaining. Use the battery power icon on the system tray or you can purchase batteries which have LED gauges on the outside of the battery itself.
5. Charging It Up
Whenever you have access to a power source, charge the battery. Before you leave on any trips, fully charge the batteries, especially if you don’t know where or when you might have access to any electrical outlets.
6. Get Another Battery
Some laptops are capable of running with two batteries. If you cannot run two batteries, check with the manufacturer to see if there are high capacity batteries available. External batteries can also be used to extend operating time.
7. Drain the Battery
The first time you use your laptop with battery power, allow the laptop battery to completely discharge. Do this at least twice and don’t try to charge the battery when it is half discharged.
8. Clean Batteries
Keep the battery and its connections clean and free of debris. Clean your battery terminals on a regular basis using a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol on the tip.
9. CMOS Battery Check-Up
The backup battery is a CMOS battery which is a secondary battery to power the clock and can drain a main battery if it is dead. Check with your User Manual or manufacturer’s web site for the location of the CMOS battery and where to get a replacement.
10. Turning It Off
Don’t run programs or devices that you aren’t using. Remove PC cards and turn off Wi-Fi software. Using your laptop to watch movies or play games will drain the battery quickly as well.

As a mobile office worker your unique needs for a laptop computer mean that what you want in a laptop will differ from those looking for personal use laptops. You want a laptop that you can take with you easily. You need to have the ability to connect to the Internet and company networks in a variety of methods and have a laptop capable of undertaking your daily work tasks. Evaluate the tasks you perform and compare them against the laptop features to ensure you get the right laptop.

When making the decision to buy a laptop for mobile use, it’s important to consider the options you have available. You can purchase new, used or refurbished or even lease a laptop. Decide what factors are most important and keep in mind what your budget will allow. If state of the art technology is key, then leasing is your best option. Examine your options before you buy a lapop.

The next important criteria when you buy a laptop is size and weight. The best choices for mobile office workers are thin & light laptops and ultra-portable designs. You’ll find these laptops offer the best mobility options and make the most sense when you have to travel with your laptop. Laptops meant to replace desktop systems may be too heavy to carry for long periods of time but can provide features valuable to mobile professionals.

As a mobile office worker, having the ability to connect to an office network and the Internet are integral to successfully working in a mobile environment. Laptops with multiple connection options are what will suit mobile workers and leave them with the ability to get connected in practically any situation. Consider the different types of situations where you will need remote access and make sure that your laptop will have the networking capabilities included or easily added.

Batteries
Mobile workers need laptops that have long battery lives and even better are laptops that allow you to add an extra battery. You never know if your mobile work will take you to places where electricity is not an option. Traveling by air, rail or bus are prime examples. It’s also worth looking at how long it takes to recharge your laptop batteries.

Security Features
Mobile office workers must accept that their laptop will be a prime target for theft. Know what security measures you can take and what security options are available with the laptop you choose. Making the decision for a higher-end laptop that includes security options can save you money and grief.

Specifications
Just as mobile office workers need to consider the above, they must also realize what the minimum and maximum acceptable specifications laptops have. It makes no sense to buy the smallest laptop possible but not have the processor speed or RAM to carry out your job functions. Keyboards and monitors are also important – if they are too small you won’t be able to work effectively and may perhaps cause injury or strain.

Upgrades
As with all technology, mobile office technology is constantly changing and improving. If your laptop can’t be upgraded it can be become a hindrance rather than an effective tool. Watch for laptops that have onboard components that can’t be upgraded and try to avoid those. Remember that networking technology is always improving and changing and you could be left without an efficient means of connecting to your company network or the Internet.

Warranties & Support
As a mobile worker it’s key that your laptop be in good working order and if you do need repair work that you have resources for either quick repair or replacement. Purchasing additional warranty coverage and getting 24/7 support are important considerations when looking at laptop manufacturers. It’s also important to know if the laptop manufacturer provides local and/or international support.

Thank you for view!

How to find the best notebook PCs and laptop computers
Clearly the processor, as with a desktop machine, has a huge role to play in defining the performance of a portable computer. It’s worth noting, though, that because portable machines tend to be used primarily for more mundane tasks, a lower spec processor can often be the wiser buy, especially as they tend to consume less battery power.

We’ll start with AMD. At the time of writing it has a mobile-optimised processor called the AMD Athlon XP-M, and it’s a comparably cheap solution. In terms of raw performance, it doesn’t hold up too well against Intel’s portable processors, but it will happily process basic office tasks without breaking a sweat. AMD also has the useful Mobile Athlon 4, which again targets budget laptops, and again lags slightly behind the Intel competition.

Intel, meanwhile, has plenty up its sleeve. The Pentium 4-M, for instance, is a fast processor, albeit one that doesn’t necessarily maximise battery life. You can also find machines with a desktop Pentium 4 processor inside, but these generate masses of heat and eat battery life faster than anything else (although some machines also feature desktop AMD Athlon 64 chips that have a similar effect). That makes them suitable only for desktop replacement laptops, rather than a machine you’d take out and about with you.

For the processor that best balances performance and battery life though, you need to turn to Intel’s Centrino technology or a later equivalent. Centrino is actually a combination of technologies including chipset, a wireless adapter and a processor. Processors included in Centrino models are either Intel Celeron-M or Pentium-M units, with the former being cheaper at a cost to performance.

So which should you plump for? If you’re looking for your laptop to be truly portable, then a Centrino-based processor is the best bet, although you will pay a financial premium for the pleasure. These processors will also, incidentally, handle games a lot better than you may expect.

If budgets are tighter, then AMD’s low cost solutions are worth a look though, while if it’s a desktop replacement machine you’re looking for, then one laden with an Athlon 64 or Pentium 4 will neatly do the job.

A machine that’s never going to do more than a bit of office work and Web surfing is never going to require cutting edge specifications, and that’s why budget portables tend to come with 256MB of RAM. Normally when it comes to a desktop machine we’d recommend no less than 512MB and ideally 1GB, yet in the portable environment, providing you’re not one of those people who insists on having dozens of windows open at once, 256MB will get you by. If the budget stretches, however, 512MB will give you a noticeable performance increase. Is it worth going up to 1GB? Not especially, unless you’re looking to use the machine for gaming or heavy multimedia work.

Laptop hard drives don’t spin as fast as their desktop counterparts, and this is down to the need to limit power consumption. However, it’s only when you take on intensive multimedia work and the likes of high-end games that you’ll really notice any kind of difference in everyday use. Do note, though, that you can get portable machines with drives that spin at 4,200rpm and 5,400rpm, and if you must get optimal performance, then it’s the latter you should opt for. You may end up paying extra for something that doesn’t make an awful lot of difference, though.

As for capacity, this – as you’d expect – is led by what you actually want to do with the machine. If it’s a simple, robust office and Internet computer you’re after, then you could be fine with just a 20GB hard drive, although you may opt for 40GB as the price difference isn’t too much. Only if you’re looking at heavy multimedia work or gaming should you really look much higher, and 80GB units aren’t too costly.

The majority of portable machines rely on graphics technology that’s fully integrated into the laptop’s motherboard. Thus, while they’re fine for office applications, DVD playback and suchlike, they struggle when it comes to gaming.

That’s why graphics giants ATI and nVidia have invested so heavily in providing portable versions of their powerful desktop graphics technology. Their products, in terms of power, lag a generation behind their desktop counterparts, but for the vast majority of modern games, that’s not going to cause too many problems (although clearly it’s a lot more difficult – yet not always impossible – to upgrade laptop graphics boards further down the line).

So, at the time of writing you’re looking for the likes of Radeon 9800s and GeForce Go 6800 (at the high end) when it comes to checking out the specs. Cunningly, where manufacturers tend to skimp here is by offering higher end graphics solutions, albeit with only 64MB of graphics RAM. This is probably pointless, and if you are buying a laptop with powerful graphics, ensure that this side of the spec has at least 128MB of RAM behind it. Note that this is listed differently from the machine’s main memory which we discussed earlier.

The tumbling costs of DVD burners mean that many laptops now come with a DVD writer as standard. Towards the budget end of the market, however, you may still come across machines that have a CD-ROM drive, or more likely a CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo. This is a drive that will read and write to CDs, but only read DVDs. Usually, for just a few pounds more, you can add DVD burning capabilities.

The minimum to opt for here is the aforementioned combo drive, while if you’re going down the DVD burner route, opt for a dual format unit that is compatible with both the + and – DVD writing specifications.

You spend a lot of time staring at a computer’s screen, so don’t be tempted to overlook it. Many models are now coming with crystal clear widescreen displays; they’re generally quite strong, although they inevitably add to the bulk of the laptop. That’s why many people still opt for a more conventional display.

Laptops come with LCD screens, the size of which tend to start at 12.1 inches diagonally, and head up to the 17-inch mark. What you plump for is ultimately down to straight user preference. You know what kind of screen size you’ll be comfortable using, and if you don’t, head down to a computer retailer and do a comparison. Before buying the machine itself online at a big discount, naturally…

Now we come to the battery, which is the bane of the laptop computer user. We’ve already discussed processors, but they have a large part to play in the battery life of a laptop. Going back three or four years, the most you could expect from a single, fully-charged laptop battery was two hours of work time, or less if you were taking on processor-intensive work or DVD playback. Now, thankfully, you have a few options.

The machines with the shortest battery life tend to be those with desktop processors in them. Conversely, they also have tremendous processing power, so it tends to be a bit of a trade off. However, as they aren’t optimised for mobile working, they eat power, and they eat it fast, sometimes giving just 70 minutes off a full charge.

That’s why such machines are often sold as ‘desktop replacement’ products, rather than laptops. At the time of writing, the clues to look for in the specs are processing power in advance of 2.8GHz, and if you’re buying a Pentium or Celeron based system, the lack of the letter M (ie Pentium 4 rather than Pentium M), or no mention that the CPU is mobile-optimised.

Longer battery life comes from chips that form part of Intel’s Centrino technology. The Centrino isn’t actually a processor itself, more a series of technologies designed to optimise battery life and wireless working. However, whenever you come across a Centrino machine, it will have either a Celeron or Pentium processor within it that’s been optimised for portable use. And that means you can expect battery life at best touching the five hour mark.

Incidentally, there is another way round the problem of limited battery life, and that’s to simply buy another battery. You can either get one that sits inside the machine (if there’s room), or there are an increasing number of portable external batteries that will also do the job. You can expect to pay into the hundreds of pounds for many of them, though.

Most modern laptops come equipped with USB 2.0 ports, an in-built 56Kbps modem and LAN ports as standard. Budget models may not have FireWire and wireless networking features as standard, although the overwhelming majority of laptops also have a PCMCIA slot, which accepts expansion cards that can host these features.

For most people, connectivity is vital and a necessary consideration. For most of us, those USB 2.0 ports will be enough, but don’t overlook the fact that more and more laptops are shipping without floppy drives. CD burners, networking features, the Web and flash drives are now the most popular ways of getting data to and from a portable machine. You might want to think in advance of your favoured method, and ensure that your purchase supports it.

One factor you might not immediately think of when buying a laptop is just how portable it is. It’s easy to assume that every machine is as easy to carry around as another, but that’s simply not the case. The weight of a machine with a widescreen display and desktop processor on board can dramatically differ from that of a sleek Centrino-based portable. Most manufacturers will now quote you the weight of the machine in their specifications, so if portability is important to you, be sure to seek this out. To help with portability, many manufacturers will now also include a special laptop bag as part of the deal.

Moving now to software: as with a desktop machine, it’s easy to end up paying more than you need for a package because it’s been buffed up with bloated software. You will, however, need an operating system, and the overwhelming majority of laptops use Microsoft Windows in some guise. Linux hasn’t really made inroads into the portable market as yet, and thus Windows XP Home or Professional will more than likely be bundled in.

Some leave it at that, others will include one or more of the following: DVD playback software (useful, but not that expensive to buy), anti-virus package (never to be sniffed at), some form of office package (if it’s Microsoft Office, that accounts for much of the price, while the likes of Ability Office barely dent it) and CD/DVD burning software (the bundled stuff is generally quite limited, but enough to do what the majority of people need it to do).

If a portable machine goes awry, it costs a great deal more to fix than a desktop PC. For that reason it’s worth looking into warranty packages, although don’t instantly snap up the one that your retailer is offering you. Shop around some third party services and see if you can get a better deal.

Hopefully, all of that has given you some useful pointers as to what to look out for. The usual rules should apply when you do finally go shopping though: research your purchase carefully, ask as many questions of your retailer as you need and make sure you pick the machine you want, not the one they want to sell you. Oh, and don’t forget to check out the machines we’ve tested at IT Reviews. Happy shopping…

Q1: The battery in my laptop is almost new. I worked about 2 hours. Then he abruptly began to work for 20 minutes.What happened?

A1: Determine whether the new battery can only be read from its flash production date and number of used cycles. But this does not guarantee its quality, if the battery is not genuine, because . Some Chinese manufacturers put the elements of low quality (to put it bluntly, a marriage) or even second-hand.
The fact that the battery quickly went into disrepair as no surprise. In the majority of batteries for laptops used lithium-ion cells. For them, a sharp decrease in capacity, up to a total loss of efficiency – a typical case, unlike nickel-cadmium and nickel-metalgidridnyh elements for which the typical smooth decrease in capacity.
Rewrite likely will not help. Rewrite – it is not a panacea, it is a necessary but not sufficient condition for the successful repair of the battery.  Only in rare cases, failure occurs when the controller batteries are still good condition items. In these rare cases, rewrite helps, but hope this is not worth it. In some cases, experimenting with bad elements can lead to blocking of the controller, which will complicate the repair or even make it impossible. 

 Q2: How to check the quality of components? I have used elements from the other batteries can I use them? 

A2: The quality of items is determined mainly by two parameters: the capacity and internal resistance. To determine these parameters require special devices. Both of these parameters affect your notebook on a single charge, but also plays an important role in the difference of these parameters for all groups of cells in the battery.  It is this difference in the parameters determines the complexity of the used cells in the battery.
To assemble the battery out of used items, you must test each element – a measure of capacity and internal resistance.In this measurement an automatic tester takes about 5 hours for each element.After that you should select a group of elements of one type and manufacturer with possibly similar parameters. Roughly “close” parameters need to be within 5%.You can then try to collect the battery, if found sufficient similar elements with similar parameters.
You have not yet perehotelos deal with second-hand items? Then keep in mind that even if the battery will work and show good results, nobody knows how she will survive – year, month or week. 
The only case where it makes sense to use second-hand items – if you have an assembly from another battery, suitable for the configuration.  Then the test can be simplified.
First, it measures the voltage on each group of elements. They should be in the range of 3 … 4,2 B and did not differ by more than 50mV.If you are close to 3V voltage, charge the entire battery (not separate groups of elements, otherwise you their razbalansiruete!) No more than 500mA current to a voltage of 4 … 4,2 V / cell. Watch the stresses on groups of elements that it does not exceed 4.2 V. Leave the battery for a few hours off from the charger and load relaxation. Again measure the voltage on the groups of elements.If they do not run away more than 50mV, connect the load of 1.5 … 2 A (strong resistance around 10 ohms or a suitable incandescent bulbs). Connect again to the entire battery, but not to a separate group of elements. Measure any stresses in each group of elements connected to the entire battery capacity. If in this case the voltage does not differ by more than 50mV – assembly can be used.
The requirement of 50mV may seem too stringent.And indeed, some controllers can withstand and 150mV.But, first, putting the elements of such a “skewed”, should not expect
Ideally, the run-up of stress must be placed in 10mV, but it is characteristic only of new and quality items.Secondly, you run the risk of lock controller.

Q3: Can I use instead of a single lithium-ion cell, three nickel-metalgidridnyh connected in series? Tension in the first and second case 3.6 V. ..

A3: No, impossible.Voltage something the same, but the charging mode is different. Nickel metalgidridnye
elements in such an inclusion would be charged somewhere in the 25%.Given that now the cost elements LiON and NiMH almost called, and the specific capacity NiMH markedly less LiON, such
? LiON. Also, do not recommend experimenting with reverse replacement of NiMH at LiON. In this case, you just mess up the elements, if not the worst happens – fire batteries.
Some laptops are designed for use as lithium-ion and nickel-metalgidridnyh batteries. But this does not mean that you can replace some elements of the other inside the battery itself. On what used elements in the battery and how to charge the laptop battery controller said.To replace LiON on NiMH or vice versa will require intervention in the program and / or hardware controller.

Q4: How to flash controller battery? Do I need to do to open the battery?Are there programs that allow the battery to flash directly into the laptop?

A4: There are 2 types of controllers – from the external memory (EEPROM), and with built-in.  The first sewed by any programmer, support its use in the controller to your battery EEPROM. Second – the specialized programs.SmartBatteryWorkshop, Battery EEPROM Works, AccPlus  For example SmartBatteryWorkshop, Battery EEPROM Works, AccPlus and other conditions proliferation and description of the features look on the Internet. 
In the first case of opening the battery can not be avoided – it is necessary to gain access to the EEPROM. In the second case open is not necessary, but do not forget that the firmware battery with bad elements useless.
Programs that allow the battery to flash directly into the laptop I do not know. Typically, you want to make a simple adapter to connect the battery to the LPT.

Q5: I bought some new elements, but they have different voltages.Why and what to do?

A5: This is probably a bad elements or from different parties.
Combine all the elements in parallel and soak in this state a couple of hours (preferably overnight).Then disconnected elements and then soak them in such a state a couple of hours (preferably overnight). Now measure the voltage on each element. If they differ significantly (more than 20mV), then some of them have leaks and nothing good from them will not work.If the same voltage (the difference is within 10mV), connect them, how to connect old items in your battery and measure the voltage difference in each group under load, as described in paragraph A2. If the load voltage at the elements do not differ by more than 50mV, we can hope that the battery of them will work fine.

Q6: I read that the elements can not be soldered.I have no apparatus for spot welding and I do not want to buy it, because  required to repair only one battery, for themselves.Can I apply for low-temperature solders solder connections?

A6: Buy items with welded petals solder wires.They are not much more expensive stand. A damaged item will cost you more.
If you could not buy the petals, or have already bought without them – well, try to solder. If you do it quickly and with a good flux, and may turn out.Just be aware that heated lithium-ion cells to 70 degrees Celsius is dangerous. Also do not forget to remove the remnants of a qualitatively “good flux” in order to avoid corrosion.

Q7: Can I do re-programming the controller, but simply to replace the items on the new?

A7: Yes.If the battery to replace the elements worked khotyaby few minutes, then it is likely that after the replacement of elements calibrate it in the process. 
In some cases, re-programming in general is not possible to do, because batteries used in the controller chip, on which there is no documentation widely available and there is no program that can flash this chip.
In some cases, rewrite is necessary because  controller is locked and no firmware will not work.
In some cases, without a firmware controller laptop does not correctly indicates time and calibration of the battery does not occur.
In some cases, without flashing battery works on a lot less than it should, based on the capacity of installed components.
Sumiruya above, re-programming should be done always, if possible.

Q8: What is the battery life? How to extend battery life?

A8: The first lithium-ion batteries were not very intensive, but were 5-6 years. Now the capacity of lithium cells has increased significantly, but the life was reduced to an average of 2 years. Apparently technology is evolving in the direction of increasing battery life.Lifetime manufacturers of batteries care less. 
Lithium-ion batteries are getting older and become useless even if not used, because to avoid the notebook on battery power makes no sense. Switch on the battery whenever you need it.
Keep the battery constantly charged. STORAGE laptop monitors battery power and never reload it. Connected to the mains, if possible.
2. Do not drain the battery below the 10-20% without.If such a need arose, can discharge the battery completely, until you shut down the laptop, but try as soon as possible to connect to the mains and khotyaby partially recharge the battery.
3.If you are not using your laptop for a long time, charge the battery completely and remove from the laptop. Even if the laptop is turned off, the battery is discharged in it (supported by duty regime).Some notebooks are able to put a fully charged battery for a week, while in the off position.In a strongly low battery voltage may drop to such an extent that no longer work controller battery (he, too, need food).After that, the battery ceases viditsya laptop and charge accordingly.To put it in working condition usually requires to open the battery and recharge the elements directly, bypassing the controller.Yes, and the elements themselves do not always withstand deep discharge.2-3 such deep discharge elements can not move.
4.Lithium-ion batteries are hardly endure the negative temperature and heat above 60 degrees Celsius. “Frozen” batteries quickly lose capacity. Heat will contribute to accelerated wear and, moreover, can lead to blocking of the controller.  In summer the temperature inside the car, left in the sun, can exceed 60 degrees, winter quickly falls below zero.

Q9: I found a battery of one group of elements, a failed and replaced only her. Then the battery works fine, but you say that you need to change all the elements. You just want people to spend more money on items!

A9: how well the battery works – to judge you. For yourself you can do whatever you like, but those who are engaged in repair panels professionally, you confirm that you need to change all the elements.Because the partial replacement of the group elements are of different capacities and therefore the whole battery will work badly. The charge will end crashes, because group with the smallest capacity recharged, while the rest will nedozaryazheny.Same with the discharge – in the worst group of voltage falls below acceptable limits.At this point, more recent elements are still not fully discharged.Battery capacity will be determined by the worst team.Some controllers, such as BQ2060, not blocked, but it will not save for a long time, because worst team will work very hard mode (recharging pererazryad) and after a few cycles you will have to buy the next pair of elements.Then the following …  Ultimately, when you change all the elements, those that changed first, already postareyut, the capacity of their fall and they will have to work hard and at the same time compromise the performance of the battery.

It’s like eating apples nadgnivshih at the time, as entire starting to rot  . .
In addition, we, repairmen, do not want to pack a few times back under warranty. It spoils the nerves and the customer and the performer.We want people became convinced that the repacked battery works no worse (and often better) than new. In particular, the better “new” China.

The lifespan of a laptop battery is very important to people that like to use their computer on the go or in a mobile way. The length a battery is runs is often a very important factor in a purchasing decision for anyone buying a laptop, especially if they envisage using it all the time for their work/play needs.
Here are some tips to bear in mind when buying a new or replacement battery for a laptop:

No doubt, if you purchased your laptop as new, it will come with supplied a battery. However, many people find their existing laptop batteries are just not adequate enough. As a result, they can find themselves in frustrating situations e.g. the battery running out at a crucial moment.

In order to avoid such scenario, here are some tips you should bear in mind.

1)  Buy a battery that has a long life, the lifespan is specified by the manufacturer. Of course, the longer lasting batteries will cost more than those with a shorter running time.

Consider a battery from a different manufacturer to laptop

2) A lot of people buy a laptop battery from the same manufacturer as the maker of the laptop they own. This isn’t necessarily the best choice. There is nothing wrong with using a battery from a different manufacturer. In fact, you may save yourself some money as it means you have a wider range to choose from.

3)  Shop around for the battery, purchase on the Internet if you have to. You will be able to locate much better deals on the Internet using price comparison search engines.

4)  How long do you expect a battery to last? The needs of users will vary depending on the level of use and the locations they use their laptop. Some heavy users using a laptop in mobile location will want a very long lasting battery, but others who only move it around their homes may not need an exceedingly long life battery.

5)  When buying a replacement battery, ensure you have a return policy as not all replacement batteries work well with a particular model of laptop. Of course, if that’s the case you have the option of trying out another one until you are satisfied. It might be easy to take the laptop with you when purchasing a battery, but problems with batteries are not always evident straight away. A battery needs to be tested in an environment in which you would normally use it; therefore, you should try it for at least a few days before deciding it’s the right one for your laptop.

Safeguard your purchase

Make sure you buy the laptop battery from a reputable retailer because there have been incidences in the past here the battery catches fire which can obviously cause damage to the laptop. This can also put at risk any important files and documents that you might have saved on machine. The batteries were manufactured by an established name like Sony used in laptops made by companies like Apple, Dell and Fujitsu.

You might not receive the same buyer’s rights if you were to purchase the battery either used or from a relatively unknown retailer. Its important to be in a position to recover any damage to any equipment that may result from a malfunctioning battery.

Find the right PC

Laptop systems have grown in popularity due to their increasing performance and portability. Many systems are even now being marketed as replacements for desktop systems but few can perform at the same level as a desktop system particularly when it comes to graphics. This guide will help you to look at some of the key items you want to look at before you purchase your next PC laptop system.
Size and Weight
Obviously the size and weight of a laptop is important. Netbooks offer light weight and sizes but sacrifice items such as drives and performance. Desktop replacements have equivalent power to desktop systems but they are heavy and bulky making them difficult to carry around. When shopping for a laptop, make sure to pick up the systems and verify its something you are willing to carry. Don’t forget to also consider the weight of accessories such as AC adapter when carrying around the laptop.

Processors (CPU)
Mobile processors typically were slower than desktop CPUs but that has changed. Dual-core processors are common and help with multitasking. The type of processors found in the laptop will vary based upon the size and purpose of the laptop. They have a direct impact on performance as well as battery life so comparison can be difficult. Check out my listings for suggested processors for the various types of laptop PCs available.

Memory (RAM)
Laptops are generally more restricted in the amount of memory they can have compared to desktops. When looking at computers you want to make sure to check out the maximum memory the system can handle as well as the amount that is installed in the computer. It is also useful to find out if a memory upgrade can be done yourself or if it has to be done by a technician. Two gigabytes should really be the minimum amount of memory to consider with 4GB for improved performance.

Displays and Video
The video on a laptop computer is comprised of the display and the video processor. The display is defined by the screen size and the native resolution. The larger the display, the higher the resolution will typically be, but it also will impact how portable the system is. Wide screen displays are now standard. The graphics processor will determine the performance of the computer in things such as 3D graphics and high definition video acceleration.

Drives
How much storage space will you need? Hard drives are fairly straight forward in terms of the size and the performance may be impacted by the rotational speed. Optical drives play a more important role when purchasing a laptop PC. DVD burners are pretty much a standard feature supporting the dual layer media. Direct labeling features such as Label Flash and LightScribe are available. Blu-ray is available for viewing high definition video but are still fairly uncommon.

Networking
The ability to connect to the net is integral to most laptops today. Look for systems that include a built in Fast Ethernet and Wi0Fi. For the minimum amount of wireless connectivity, look at getting a notebook with 802.11b/g. Systems with the 802.11n draft standard are also fairly common now. For those that need connectivity in remote locations, a built-in modem or a cellular (WWAN) card are also options.

Battery Life
How good is a portable computer going to be if you are only able to get 30 minutes of computing time on a single charge? Try to find the manufacturer’s listed battery life for the standard battery. Look to get a system with at least 2 hours of battery life under normal conditions. If you need extended time unplugged, look for laptops with media bays that can double as extra battery slots or have extended life batteries that can be purchased.

Warranty Plans
Laptops take a lot of abuse and are more prone to breakdowns due to their portability. When buying a system, make sure to get at least a 1 year warranty from the manufacturer. If you will be using the system heavily, a system that comes with a 3 year warranty might be a better choice but it will cost more. Third party extended plans are not a good choice unless service is done through the manufacturer.

Batteries are a perishable product and start deteriorating right from the time they leave the manufacturing plant. For this reason, it is not advisable to stock up on batteries for future use. This is especially true with lithium-based batteries. The buyer should also be aware of the manufacturing date. Avoid acquiring old stock.

Keep batteries in a cool and dry storage area. Refrigerators are recommended, but freezers must be avoided because most battery chemistries are not suited for storage in sub-freezing temperatures. When refrigerated, the battery should be placed in a plastic bag to protect it against condensation.

The NiCd battery can be stored unattended for five years and longer. For best results, a NiCd should be fully charged, then discharged to zero volts. If this procedure is impractical, a discharge to 1V/cell is acceptable. A fully charged NiCd that is allowed to self-discharge during storage is subject to crystalline formation (memory).

Most batteries are shipped with a state-of-charge (SoC) of 40 percent. After six months storage or longer, a nickel-based battery needs to be primed before use. A slow charge, followed by one or several discharge/charge cycles, will do. Depending on the duration of storage and temperature, the battery may require two or more cycles to regain full performance. The warmer the storage temperature, the more cycles will be needed.

The Li-ion does not like prolonged storage. Irreversible capacity loss occurs after 6 to 12 months, especially if the battery is stored at full charge and at warm temperatures. It is often necessary to keep a battery fully charged as in the case of emergency response, public safety and defense. Running a laptop (or other portable device) continuously on an external power source with the battery engaged will have the same effect. Figure 15-1 illustrates the recoverable capacity after storage at different charge levels and temperatures.
The combination of a full charge condition and high temperature cannot always be avoided. Such is the case when keeping a spare battery in the car for a mobile phone. The NiMH and Li-ion chemistries are most severely affected by hot storage and operation. Among the Li-ion family, the cobalt has an advantage over the manganese (spinel) in terms of storage at elevated temperatures.

Temperature 40% charge level
(recommended storage charge level) 100% charge level
(typical user charge level)

0°C 98% after 1 year 94% after 1 year
25°C 96% after 1 year 80% after 1 year
40°C 85% after 1 year 65% after 1 year
60°C 75% after 1 year 60% after 3 months

Figure 15-1: Non-recoverable capacity loss on Li-ion batteries after storage.
High charge levels and elevated temperatures hasten the capacity loss. Improvements in chemistry have increased the storage performance of some Li-ion batteries.

The recommended storage temperature of a lithium-based battery is 15°C (59°F) or less. A charge level of 40 percent allows for some self-discharge that naturally occurs; and 15°C is a practical and economical storage temperature that can be achieved without expensive climate control systems.

While most rechargeable batteries cannot be stored at freezing temperatures, some newer commercial Li-ion batteries can be kept at temperatures of -40°C without apparent side effects. Such temperature tolerances enable long and cost-effective storage in the arctic.

The SLA battery can be stored for up to two years but must be kept in a charged condition. A periodic topping charge, also referred to as ‘refreshing charge’, is required to prevent the open cell voltage from dropping below 2.10V. (Depending on the manufacturer, some lead acid batteries may be allowed to drop to lower voltage levels). When self-discharged below a critical voltage threshold, sulfation occurs on most lead acid batteries. Sulfation is an oxidation layer on the negative plate that alters the charge and discharge characteristics. Although cycling can often restore the capacity loss, the battery should be recharged before the open cell voltage drops below 2.10V.

The SLA cannot be stored below freezing temperatures. Once a pack has been frozen, it is permanently damaged and its service life is drastically reduced. A previously frozen battery will only be able to deliver a limited number of cycles.

The battery has the inherit problem of not being able to communicate with the user. Neither weight, color, nor size provides an indication of the battery’s state-of-charge (SoC) and state-of-health (SoH). The user is at the mercy of the battery.

Help is at hand in breaking the code of silence. An increasing number of today’s rechargeable batteries are made ‘smart’. Equipped with a microchip, these batteries are able to communicate with the charger and user alike. Typical applications for ‘smart’ batteries are notebook computers and video cameras. Increasingly, these batteries are also used in biomedical devices and defense applications.

There are several types of ‘smart’ batteries, each offering different complexities and costs. The most basic ‘smart’ battery may contain nothing more than a chip that sets the charger to the correct charge algorithm. In the eyes of the Smart Battery System (SBS) forum, these batteries cannot be called ‘smart’.

What then makes a battery ‘smart’? Definitions still vary among organizations and manufacturers. The SBS forum states that a ‘smart’ battery must be able to provide SoC indications. In 1990, Benchmarq was the first company to commercialize the concept by offering fuel gauge technology. Today, several manufacturers produce such chips. They range from the single wire system, to the two-wire system to the System Management Bus (SMBus). Let’s first look at the single wire system.

The Single Wire Bus
The single wire system delivers the data communications through one wire. This battery uses three wires: the common positive and negative battery terminals and one single data terminal, which also provides the clock information. For safety reasons, most battery manufacturers run a separate wire for temperature sensing. Figure 1 shows the layout of a single wire system.

Figure 1: Single wire system of a ‘smart’ battery.Only one wire is needed for data communications. For safety reasons, most battery manufacturers run a separate wire for temperature sensing.

The single wire system stores the battery code and tracks battery readings, including temperature, voltage, current and SoC. Because of relatively low hardware cost, the single wire system enjoys market acceptance for high-end two-way radios, camcorders and portable computing devices.

Most single wire systems do not provide a common form factor; neither do they lend themselves to standardized SoH measurements. This produces problems for a universal charger concept. The Benchmarq single wire solution, for example, cannot measure the current directly; it must be extracted from a change in capacity over time. In addition, the single wire bus allows battery SoH measurement only when the host is ‘married’ to a designated battery pack. Such a fixed host-battery relationship is only feasible if the original battery is used. Any discrepancy in the battery will make the system unreliable or will provide false readings.

The SMBus

The SMBus is the most complete of all systems. It represents a large effort from the electronics industry to standardize on one communications protocol and one set of data. The Duracell/Intel SBS, which is in use today, was standardized in 1993. It is a two-wire interface system consisting of separate lines for the data and clock. Figure 2 shows the layout of the two-wire SMBus system.
Figure 2: Two-wire SMBus system.The SMBus is based on a two-wire system using a standardized communications protocol. This system lends itself to standardized state-of-charge and state-of-health measurements.

The objective behind the SMBus battery is to remove the charge control from the charger and assign it to the battery. With a true SMBus system, the battery becomes the master and the charger serves as slave that must follow the dictates of the battery.

Battery-controlled charging makes sense when considering that some packs share the same footprint but contain different chemistries, requiring alternative charge algorithms. With the SMBus, each battery receives the correct charge levels and terminates full-charge with proper detection methods. Future battery chemistries will be able to use the existing chargers.

An SMBus battery contains permanent and temporary data. The permanent data is programmed into the battery at the time of manufacturing and includes battery ID number, battery type, serial number, manufacturer’s name and date of manufacture. The temporary data is acquired during use and consists of cycle count, user pattern and maintenance requirements. Some of this information is renewed during the life of the battery.

The SMBus is divided into Level 1, 2 and 3. Level 1 has been eliminated because it does not provide chemistry independent charging. Level 2 is designed for in-circuit charging. A laptop that charges its battery within the unit is a typical example of Level 2. Another Level 2 application is a battery that contains the charging circuit within the pack. Level 3 is reserved for full-featured external chargers.
External Level 3 chargers are complex and expensive. Some lower cost chargers have emerged that accommodate SMBus batteries but are not fully SBS compliant. Manufacturers of SMBus batteries do not fully endorse this shortcut. Safety is always a concern, but customers buy them because of low cost. Serious industrial battery users operating biomedical instruments, data collection devices and survey equipment use Level 3 chargers with full-fledged charge protocol.

Among the most popular SMBus batteries are the 35 and 202 form-factors (Figure 3). Manufactured by Sony, Hitachi, GP Batteries, Moli Energy and others, these batteries work (should work) in all portable equipment designed for this system. Although the 35 has a smaller footprint than the 202, most chargers accommodate both sizes. A non-SMBus (‘dumb’) version with same footprint is also available. These batteries can only be charged with a regular charger, or one that accepts both types.
Figure 3: 35 and 202 series ‘smart’ batteries featuring SMBus.Available in nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride and lithium-ion chemistries, these batteries are used for laptops, biomedical instruments and survey equipment. A non-SMBus (‘dumb’) version with same footprint is also available.

In spite of the agreed standard and given form factors, many computer manufacturers have retained their proprietary batteries. Safety, performance and form factor are the reasons. They argue that enduring performance can only be guaranteed if their own brand battery is used. This makes common sense but the leading motive may be pricing. In the absence of competition, these batteries can be sold for a premium price.
Negatives of the ‘smart’ battery

The ‘smart’ battery has some notable downsides, one of which is price. An SMBus battery costs about 25% more than the ‘dumb’ equivalent. In addition, the ‘smart’ battery was intended to simplify the charger but a full-fledged Level 3 charger costs substantially more than a regular model.

A more serious drawback is the requirements for periodic calibration or capacity re-learning. The Engineering Manager of Moli Energy, a manufacturer of lithium-ion cell commented, “With lithium-ion we have eliminated the memory effect; but is the SMBus battery introducing digital memory?”

Why is calibration needed? The calibration corrects the tracking errors that occur between the battery and the digital sensing circuit while charging and discharging. The most ideal battery application, as far as fuel-gauge accuracy is concerned, would be a full charge followed by a full discharge at a constant current. In such a case, the tracking error would be less than 1% per cycle. In real life, however, a battery may be discharged for only a few minutes and the load pulses may be very short. Long storage also contributes to errors because the circuit cannot accurately compensate for self-discharge. Eventually, the true capacity of the battery no longer synchronizes with the fuel gauge and a full charge and discharge is needed to ‘re-learn’ the battery.

How often is calibration needed? The answer lies in the battery application. For practical purposes, a calibration is recommended once every three months or after every 40 short cycles. Many batteries undergo periodic full discharges as part of regular use. If the portable device allows a deep enough discharge to reset the battery and this is done regularly, no additional calibration is needed. However, if no discharge reset has occurred for a few months, a deliberate full discharge is needed. This can be done on a charger with discharge function or a battery analyzer.
What happens if the battery is not calibrated regularly? Can such a battery be used in confidence? Most ‘smart’ battery chargers obey the dictates of the chemical cells rather than the electronic circuit. In this case, the battery will fully charge regardless of the fuel gauge setting and function normally, but the digital readout will become inaccurate. If not corrected, the fuel gauge simply becomes a nuisance.

An addition problem with the SMBus battery is non-compliance. Unlike other tightly regulated standards, the SMBus protocol allows some variations. This may cause problems with existing chargers and the SMBus battery should be checked for compatibility before use. The need to test and approve the marriage between a specific battery and charger is unfortunate, given the assurance that the SMBus battery is intended to be universal. Ironically, the more features offered on the SMBus charger and the battery, the higher the likelihood of incompatibilities.

Apple Computer on Monday issued a battery recall for its 15-inch MacBook Pro. Apple said the affected batteries do not pose a safety hazard and users can continue to use them until the new ones arrive.

“We recently discovered that some 15-inch MacBook Pro batteries supplied to Apple do not meet our high standards for battery performance,” said Apple’s statement announcing what it calls an exchange program.

According to Apple the affected batteries have model number A1175 and a 12-digit serial number that ends with U7SA, U7SB or U7SC. To view the model and serial numbers located on the bottom of the battery, you must remove the battery from the computer. The battery serial number is located above the barcode.

More information on the exchange program and details on how to receive your new battery is available from Apple’s Web site.